Kirkwall day off

After leisurely breakfast at B&B I took my bike to cycle shop for a new tube in rear tire -- in Glasgow they had reused the patched tune, not replaced it as I asked. Pressure had dropped 25 pounds in 3 days, compared to only 5 in front tire, so I really didn't want that hassle. Walked the town some more, to Orkney museum, library, charity shops for their cheap books (30p for paperback), then back to B&B for lunch, reading, resting.

Leg muscles very tight, as I adjust to the pedestrian life.  Rain showers and high winds late afternoon, rainbows when I walk to my now favorite bar (the Bothy bar on Mounthoolies Lane) for local beer Scapa Special pale ale and veggie lasagna.

Kirkwall, Orkneys

Sunny day for the ferry over to the Orkneys, great views, sea birds and dolphins (distantly), British warships going in and out of Scapa Flow. Chat with Erica and Jason who live in Wales, out for some touring of these islands; he proposed to her yesterday at Mew Castle ruins on the way to John O'Groats with an engagement ring, but they will shop for wedding rings at some famous ringmaker in the Orkneys -- the Ring of Brognar (Neolithic standing stones) perhaps?

Warm wind blew me to Kirkwall, almost humid, hazing over. So an easy 21 mile day to B&B, take rest of afternoon off, confirming a few more stops on my itinerary --Outer Hebrides and Skye now planned.
Then wander flagstone streets of Kirkwall, very Norse influenced town. 12th century St. Magnus cathedral, "the light in the North."

 Loved this blissful example of funerary sculpture, in memory of Artic explorer John Rea, who discovered the fate of the 1840's Franklin expedition. Just taking a nap.

John o' Groats, Caithness, day 15 from Lands End

Lovely sun to go with my wonderful breakfast at the BettyHill hotel-- like it so much I booked my room for my return after the Orkneys.
View from breakfast table:

Some ups and downs along this rugged coast, but last half of the day flattened out, also got cloudy. Arrived at the signpost and got the picture, but disappointed that the old hotel there is now an upscale "natural retreat", no longer serving meals. I'm booked in the Seaview hotel up the hill, not great, but decent panini and real ale brewed in John o'Groats.

Bettyhill, Sutherland, on the north coast.

Rain during the night, cloudy and damp start. Soon climbing inland, forest and moor, much evidence of clear cutting, bleak landscape. Climb along the Shin river, then tea and pastry stop at Lairg. A "tiffin", sweet and delicious confection: crushed "biscuits" (digestives), raisins, cocoa, with white chocolate icing, not baked but chilled till set. Onward, soon into drizzle and showers, hint of sun. Meet the Fallkirk bike club out for a few days in the northwest of Scotland, said no rain  until today. Borrow floor pump from their support van to pump up soft rear tire, midge attack even in the rain. Memo to self: no camping, these no-seeums too fierce. To only pub in this remote area but just miss lunch time, so tea and biscuits.

Then onto very isolated single track north to Syre along the Strathnaver trail, following loch and stream. Markers commemorate the "clearances" -- evictions/razing of highland settlements on 1814 for more "efficient" (i.e. more profitable) sheep raising by English landowners.

Bettyhill is old hotel, top of hill with great view of bay and sea. Best dinner I've had for a long time, a wonderful creamy mushroom and spinach taglatelle/pasta with pesto. I earned it today. Pastry, now cream sauce, high living, gout to come? 

Hope sky clears tonight, since northern lights supposed to be good.

And across from hotel is a mobile cinema, shows start tomorrow : BFG, and latest Star Trek movie. 

Alness (near Inverness and Moray Firth)

Mist, drizzle, stop. Repeat, at least for all morning of this cool, cloudy but never very rainy day. Rode along the Caledonia canal and Loch Ness, and had several pots of tea, including this at lunch time.

If you're ever in Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness say hello to Mario for me. Cafe Eighty2, nice fun place, great playlist, including Kate Bush -- Mario agreed with me that her music (from the 80's) is timeless.

The afternoon was just cool and damp, as I left the Highlands behind for now and headed into the flatter farmland of NE Scotland. Today was the longest mileage yet, 84 miles, can feel the fatigue accumulating. Two more days to JOG, then I think a few days "off" in the Orkneys admiring Neolithic sites and resting my Neolithic knees.

Fort William, near Ben Nevis

Drizzle at breakfast, then quick downpour while loading bike, then lightens slightly, so rain poncho and uphill, out of Inveraray. Walk the 13% grade section just outside town, then rideable climb, 8 miles up before descent. Where I meet Jaag and Annemarie from Holland, who ferried over to Newcastle -- how I will depart for Holland in 3 weeks. Nice couple, Jaag my age, retired educator, Annemarie (20 years younger) going back to school to become nurse.

Drizzle until lunch, when sun comes out so I eat outside post office/store at Connell. Then catch tail wind around loch but clouds dominate and drizzle starts again. Eventually onto cyclepath 78, will go from Oban to Fort William when completed, nice signage and mostly paved.

Then rain last hour into Fort William, on road, and then sun and rainbows as I roll around town to tonight's lodging, Ben Nevis Hotel. Alas no views, clouded in.

And technical note: I rechecked tightness on crank and noticed one of the chain wheel bolts was not full tight, tightened it, no squeak yesterday. The bike shop manager had mentioned that possibility and I thought Doug checked, must have missed one. And I can feel the difference the new tires make, 10lbs less inflation, thick tread and better grip/shock absorption on wretched roads/gravel.

Inveraray (Inbhir Aora) Scotland

Suddenly the Highlands, courtesy of Scottish Rail.

I rode to the nearest bike shop, a tiny place with little stock, who directed me to the best one in Glasgow. Took train into center of town to get to Billy Bilsland's, where Doug swapped out my tires for heavier duty "touring plus" models. He tried tightening things to remove squeak, ruled out serious things like crank or bearings, shrugged.

Then to Queen St station by way of quick tour of downtown Glasgow for train out to Arrochar, deep in the locks. Got there at 1:30, stopped for long late lunch before climbing over to next loch. Subtle squeaking. Annoying, not constant, assume not serious. Cloudy day, Trossachs obscured by mist. Rode the 25 miles to Inverary, over the Rest and Be Thankful pass, only 262 meters high, nice highway grade so nothing too steep.

Inverary a small, pretty town, though a lot of it under green netting for reconstruction. Staying at The George Hotel, established 1787, has nice pub, drinking a very local craft Scottish ale called Avalanche, brewed on this loch. And sun came out.

Motherwell, Glascow

Lovely sunny day yesterday, bypassing another climb by taking the approved alternate, road and bike path along motorway due north. Actually pleasant, since either berm between else far enough away not to hear traffic. Lovely to miss 14 of the 85 miles scheduled. But 5 miles from lodging rear tire went flat, my first in 5 years! 20 minutes to put on spare, but too late and tired to try to get to bike shop in busy Glasgow suburbs. To my lodgings at a roast beef palace, "Toby Carvery", but nice enough, in large park area approached by meandering bike paths. Work on bike in room before dinner, notice that both tires are cut -- front wheel has a gouge in sidewall. And find that the squeak that developed today was coming from crank arm -- bumpy road vibration slightly loosened bolt.
And, the hotel's Wi-Fi isn't working -- "lot of digging going on" is explanation. Borrow manager's phone to check on nearest bike shop, etc. Digging, indeed, since I woke up around 2am and the room is shaking. Earplugs, pile on pillows, eventually back to sleep. And discover Wi-Fi working after breakfast.
So, off to bike shop this am, then see what the day brings on the road to Inverary.

Ecclefechan, Scotland (barely)

Only crossed into Scotland about 10 miles ago, no sign, just a small road crossing a small stream, the "River Sark." And flat farmland here near Carlisle. Speaking of Carlisle, Ecclefechan has two claims on fame: birthplace of Thomas, and also the Ecclefechan tart (butter tart stuffed with almonds, raisins, currants, etc.) Sadly not on menu of the country home turned badly into my hotel, grounds now hold trailer park, time share apts. Once owned by a cousin of Winston Churchill who stayed here back when.
But a nice day for riding, rain early am, turned sunny and warm, some nice farmland valley riding, undulating of course until flattening.  Another bike path disappointment, a dirt trail with poor signage, though it did feature this bizarre milepost, courtesy Royal Bank of Scotland.

Sunny sky went away later in afternoon, drizzle started as I ate dinner.
Ecclefechan is also just a few miles south of Lockerbie.

Ravenstonedale, Cumbria

Heavy rain early morning, then drizzle when I left hotel for bike shop to check tire pressure and get new brake pads--rear ones were very worn. Raining when I leave, heading out on A road avoiding extreme climb the route takes. Traffic not bad, but rain fills gutter/road shoulder so despite rain cape I get wet from splashing or being splashed. Traffic not bad at 10am, but gets worse when another major A road merges at a village with a narrow street. Eventually widens and the non-stop traffic spreads out. Rain continues, after 30 miles stop for lunch and pot of tea, soaked. Tea warms me, and go back into drizzle and west wind and steep climb up to moor. Lots of wet sheep; watch border collies and  their owners on ATVs herding. Wind helps blow me northeast, sky finally clears a bit late afternoon.

First hint of blue:

Then into sun, but turn west into wind up long valley, clouds again, stop to take Londoners Lawrence and Gisela's picture for them at waterfall.

 Leave Yorkshire Dales national park and enter Cumbria, descending. At the turn to climb steeply up to road to my lodgings, the Fat Lamb Inn, I stop at 12th century Pendragon Castle ruins, where I chat with cyclist Sarah, who's sitting on wall reading while drying out her tent. She's been riding Pennine bridle paths on her fat tires, just out for a few days. She spent 12 years teaching elementary school in Texas but no hint of it in her Brit accent.

Nice sunset from lodging, though clouding up again. When I step outside for a quick view of the moors at dark, before my 3rd best bitter, see a flairing meteor against the still lit sky to northwest. Good day at end.

Clitheroe, Lancashire

Windy, gray, damp start, but flat, route full of Sunday bicyclists not going my way as I head north across canals. Today's route goes between Liverpool and Manchester, but sadly no "ferry, cross the Mersey" (cue Gerry and the Pacemakers), just old bridge over the Manchester ship canal. Then busy roads and built up areas for 20 miles, and lose route detouring repaving project in center of Leigh. Eventually get on track, then route heads up hill into pretty moors. After summit down to reservoir and the Belmont Sailing Club, odd to see sailboats up high like this, blown about by gusting west wind.

Climb up again, then descend steeply, brakes start squealing again. Into valley, cross River Ribble twice, short ups and downs on way to Clitheroe, where sun comes out. At the Old Post Office hotel I work on bike, then get cleaned up to go climb up to castle in center of town, except now it's drizzling. So dinner and couple of ales,  raining harder when I leave restaurant but climb up anyway.

Back to hotel, checking nearby pubs for post blog final pint but they all seem to close at 9 on Sunday nights, so console myself back in room with hot chocolate and dark chocolate McVities digestive.

Acton Bridge, Cheshire

Note to self: try to avoid staying at pubs on weekend nights, especially if your room is directly above bar. Noisy crowd last night, think I fell asleep around midnight, not my usual 10pm when tired. So a late start this morning.
Today was off and on drizzle, heavy at times. But wind blew strongly from south, very gusty in afternoon. Followed route down out of Shropshire Hills, steep narrow descents of course. After 11 miles I meet Steve, sitting in the grass on side of road next to his bike, who asks my help. He's dazed and in pain, likely broken collar bone, torn shirt from where he hit pavement on his shoulder blade. Bloody hands, mud on his back and side. He said he doesn't remember what happened, obviously hit head, but helmet not damaged, just mud and grass stuck to it. He doesn't know where he is, wants to call wife for pickup since he lives in Shrewsbury less than 10 miles away. I try to explain where we are, then decide to ride down to next intersection for precise location, promising to return. Numbered road and pub less than 1/3 mile from where he is. I ride back, help him to his feet and walk him there, where he calls for pickup outside not yet open pub. We chat, he's still confused and not taking much in, wife arrives and I load his bike in the back and they're off to hospital. He emailed me later confirming that he broke his collar none, otherwise ok.

There but for the grace ...
Brian, one of the Bike Adventures group from two days ago, said they all had fallen at least once on this trip, fortunately nothing serious.

Since I'm now off route and more than a hour has passed, I decide to just bike into Shrewsbury and pick up direct route north, taking advantage of wind and direct roads.
Blown north on A roads, traffic not bad, not many trucks, drizzle intermittent, glorious wind ride at high speed. After particularly heavy drizzle, a.k.a. moderate rain, get off A49 for 3rd pot of tea and then when it stops decide to just pick up slow road route for last 12 miles to lodging, arriving 4pm after 65 miles.

Wentnor, Shropshire

Rain early morning, so I decided to make my own adventure rather than following the Bike Adventure route. Took direct road north to Hereford, hills and traffic not bad, and even the rain eventually turned to drizzle and then stopped for part of the 30 mile ride. My kind of riding, rolling at straight out speed on real road, not farm lanes and not worrying about the turn by turn sketchy directions. Liberating. To train station, and even without bike reservation I make next train. My lucky day. Get to station nearest my lodging, 1/2 hour later, saving half the day and my knees. Then leisurely lunch while drizzle returns, and next just 10 miles along road following river, rolling but not "undulating" like more severe route preferred by tour. Though I do pick that up again turning off to get to tonight's pub lodging, arriving at 3pm, a most kind and gentlemanly 42 miles for this delightful if rainy day, and the sky matched my mood by clearing up. So I get to clean up bike outside with hose and rags, enjoying the sun.
The route to the lodging of course went by way of a farmlane, showing how cows rule the roads around here.

In the middle of the Shropshire hills, nice walking hereabouts, but not this trip. Even a Montgomery Castle nearby, unfortunately too far off even my freelance (for today) route.

Tintern, Monmouthshire, Wales

Much easier cycling today, with only a few steep climbs to walk up. Hazy, humid, warm later. Still a long 74miles. To Cheddar Gorge, deep cleft in the Mendip Hills, steep climb initially.

Then some backroad farm lanes, didn't meet as many tractors as yesterday.

But approaching the Severn River got thoroughly confused, first about the bike path over the Avonmouth bridge, until I ask a cyclist heading that way. Very poor signage, often just gravel or dirt, not at all clear. Following the direction sheets becomes a lost cause as fatigue builds, but finally make it to the old Severn bridge. Then up along the Wye river, which marks border with Wales. To Tintern Abbey at 5:30, closing at 6pm. So on to my guesthouse. The bike group said they saw it by moonlight two nights ago, magical.

Bridgwater, Somerset

Earlier start this morning, after breakfast at 7am at cafe near hotel. Morning mist burned off quickly, but warm and humid. Easier riding first 20 miles, pleasurable ridge riding with hazy views. And an extra five miles when I miss a turn and go off course. Several times the turn by turn instructions haven't matched the terrain, so eternal vigilance necessary. Or a GPS. Afternoon is full of up and down riding again, following narrow farm lanes. And a final steep one mile climb 10 miles from the end, over the Quantock hills past big manor house. Then roll down to Bridgwater, tired after only 63 miles, to tonight's lodging, the Old Vicarage, where clerk tells me that a Bike Adventure group is staying there. They are doing the 15 day ride but in reverse, so day 12 for them from John O'Groats. Arrange to meet at pub later, and they have tales to tell -- gale force winds in Scotland on their 2nd day caused all of them to leave the heights and "evacuate" in the accompanying support van. Plus rain and cold weather, August in Scotland. While chatting in pub a sudden shower, then drizzle, but tomorrow should be ok for riding.
Beer culture note: tonight was the second (after Horsham) pub that is part of the pub chain "Wearherspoon:"  quite nice, cheap real ale and passable food. They feature Shipyard Pale Ale on tap, apparently quite popular here, but also in Australia (which per an Aussie in the group is just mad about American craft brews, especially IPAs).
Here's the happy crew at breakfast, easier day ahead for then.

Whiddon Down, Devon

Sunny and warm, and blustery east headwind continues. Though a short day still barely making 8mph average: my walking (uphill) tour of Cornwall and now Devon persists. Nice start to the day, slightly easier than yesterday, but doesn't last as route takes savage up and down farm roads, impossible grades. After lunch in Tavistock to adjust my squealing front brakes and quick visit to bike shop to use their pump to check and add to tire pressure, start long climb up Dartmoor. Wind blows, I walk. My saddle bags act as sails to catch wind and knock me about. Ride a bit up, walk a bit up, rationing strain on knees. Stop close to top to get out of wind at old house where Mike has parked. He's a photographer, offers me hot tea from thermos and chance to sit on tailgate. We chat, he tells me all about Dartmoor National Park, prison, ponies, Hound of Baskervilles. And offers to drive me to visitor center, off my route to see visitor center and catch the sights; we even stop for cream tea later, before he drives me last 10 miles to motel. Lovely being out of wind, watching the moor go by.

Lanlivery, Cornwall

Did the obligatory signpost shot at Lands End, since the person charging for the service hadn't set up yet.

Sunny and blustery, unfortunately from the east so mostly a crosswind but a headwind the last third of the day. Beautiful views along the hilly north coast, very steep up and downs compounded by beach traffic on narrow windy roads. But wonderful nonetheless.  Until turning full into wind going inland, steep single lane farm roads, few turnouts, did a lot of walking uphill. Knees going up and brakes going down complaining  as fatigue built. For this 72 mile day I averaged 9mph, felt much longer. But nice pub at the end, even a good vegan bean dish for dinner. And dog friendly, lots inside.  I decided to provoke the locals in the bar into a discussion by asking about Brexit, majority were opposed for various reasons. In return they asked me about Trump. Now they're talking about how well they're doing in the gold medal count. Lots of fun chatting.

Lands End

Great weather continues, my luck holds. Lee and I stopped in Lyme Regis on way to train.

Almost missed train connection in Exeter, distracted trying to help older cyclist Lawrence with his brand new smartphone and there are two Exeter stops, got off at the first one. But I was able to catch a delayed Penzance bound train within minutes. 

Then very sharp ups and downs the 12 backroad miles to Lands End and the old hotel, great views.

Bridport (cont.)

Still resting up another day. I will take a Sunday train all the way to Penzance, about 180 miles, arriving 4:15 and just leaving the last 15 miles to bike to Lands End -- much better than risking the heavy weekend traffic in this charming area enjoying glorious sunny weather. And I'm having a wonderful time with Lee, enjoying the best bitters and good food here in Dorset, and finally seemed to have caught up on sleep last night.
Yesterday we went to the coast, the Anchor Inn at Seatown on the Jurassic coast, a World Heritage Site due to the fossils found in the cliffs. Mary Anning discovered many dinosaur fossils here beginning in 1814 with no formal education of course, and has been called the greatest geologist who ever lived.

Bridport

Another slow start yesterday, after too little sleep, awake at 5am, but breakfast not until 7:30. Great food, nice talking with Saskia and her experiences running B&B for 9months so far. Her first client was a woman hiding from the police, who tracked her down and took her away without explanation.

Dawdle, finally out door after 9:30, heading for Salisbury on a B road not much different than the A roads in terms of traffic, just hillier. Into headwind, but nice scenery and views of chalkdowns, ringforts and rich farmland. Get to Salisbury two hours later, tired and hot, so have early lunch at tea room on the green across from Cathedral, then digest by going inside. Very warm, still windy when I head on after 1:30, aiming southwest for Dorchester near coast, where I will meet up with my friend Brian's Brit friend Lee. Can really feel lack of sleep, hills, warm blustery wind, traffic and no real shoulder to ride on. Call Lee about 4 to arrange where to meet, he will drive out to small town and collect me. I get to small town about 5, wait, try calling him but no service, non-working phone in booth, so ask guy working on his motorbike in his garage. Rick calls Lee, who had driven right pass me. Finally collects me and we introduce ourselves -- perhaps we met in London 40 years ago? He tours me around to coast, first stopping at Cerne Abbas to see the anatomically correct Giant Man chalk figure, then nice view of Chesil Beach. On to his house in Bridport, which he is in process of selling, so only furniture is his camping gear. Quick cleanup and walk to nice restaurant and beer. Great time talking and noting similarities in our lives.

Today I wake up even earlier, can't get back to sleep, exhausted and my arms are sore from yesterday's 68 miles of hills, rough pavement, traffic. Declare need for day off, since Lee is most accommodating.
Will try to figure out train connection to make up for today's lost riding.

Winchester

Another nice day, mostly cloudy but some sun, 70s. Very jetlagged and a bit hungover, I continued adjusting to life on the left, 58 miles worth today.
 Late start after big breakfast chatting with Naseem about bikes -- seemed happy to delay going to work, usually doesn't stay overnight but his boss thought it would help him bond with the other, older guys. Busy narrow roads, fast traffic, bucolic rolling terrain, quaint towns. Simplifying my life I rode on A272 almost the whole day.
After 18 miles stopped for tea and crossa
nt in Petworth, then long lunch break 17 miles later in Peterfield at a health conscious veggie/juicebar cafe "The Apothecary" still crowded at 2pm. Could have been Northampton. Grilled Halloumi (Greek cheese), eggplant, hummous and "rocket" (aruglia) sandwich on sourdough. And much too much food, so only ate half, tucking the rest on the bike for later. Easy conversation with folks pressed in around me. Stuffed and lagging, I rode on to Winchester, passing a huge outdoor music festival site (Boom Town) starting tonight, large fields and tents, huge stage (think Woodstock) on hill. Told later that the natural amphitheater site was where Ike and Monty addressed troops before D-day.
Steep descent into town, traffic, 5:30pm. Exhausted and confused I finally find a cyclist who kindly leads me to the B&B I had reserved, no one home. Wait, ask neighbor, who calls Saskia who's visiting her father and gives me code to key box and I'm home. Shower, half sandwich, and walk the town to Cathedral. Which is closed for the night, much renovation going on, but I wander around and see some people entering back door. Woman asks me if I'm a bellringer, since that is the access for the 20 or so people gathering. I chat with her and she says go on up for a look. Up narrow stairs, along tight corridors, up steep stone staircase getting ever narrower and tighter with rope handrail finally ascend to room where the bell pulling ropes hang down.

Fun to watch as they start yanking and the bells begin to sound.
Then beer and food at the Old Gaol House pub, where the last woman hanged in Britain was incarcerated in 1955. Talk with friendly and slightly odd (and drunk) local guy who takes me to the oldest pub in town, built in 1564 and buys me a beer. Tom said he briefly lived above this bar, in room said to be haunted by the ghost of a woman hanged across the street in the 1700s.

Then walk back to B&B to meet Saskia and try to catch up on sleep. Good day.

Greetings from Britain

Arrived at Gatwick just before 9am Tuesday, having departed Toronto at 5pm Monday. Didn't sleep, dozed briefly but just too noisy. Bike box showed some damage, center pushed in and part of brake handle sticking through. But assembled it and no real problem, though front wheel slightly out of true. Managed to find a bike shop in nearest town and they easily trued it in minutes at no cost. I pumped my tires and tried to follow the Google map to the next town of Horsham they most kindly printed out and only got totally lost. Finally flagged down a passing serious cyclist, and Janet Smith graciously led me all the way to Horsham on scenic back roads since she lived nearby.

So 20 miles, only to find the inexpensive downtown hotel had just booked the last room, have to settle for pricey hotel twice as expensive but at 3pm I was running on fumes. Tried to nap, couldn't. Dinner and beer at the pub Janet recommended, and met 4 mainframe IT consultants: James, Naseem,Tom, John, Ian, nice guys.