Bettyhill, Sutherland, on the north coast.

Rain during the night, cloudy and damp start. Soon climbing inland, forest and moor, much evidence of clear cutting, bleak landscape. Climb along the Shin river, then tea and pastry stop at Lairg. A "tiffin", sweet and delicious confection: crushed "biscuits" (digestives), raisins, cocoa, with white chocolate icing, not baked but chilled till set. Onward, soon into drizzle and showers, hint of sun. Meet the Fallkirk bike club out for a few days in the northwest of Scotland, said no rain  until today. Borrow floor pump from their support van to pump up soft rear tire, midge attack even in the rain. Memo to self: no camping, these no-seeums too fierce. To only pub in this remote area but just miss lunch time, so tea and biscuits.

Then onto very isolated single track north to Syre along the Strathnaver trail, following loch and stream. Markers commemorate the "clearances" -- evictions/razing of highland settlements on 1814 for more "efficient" (i.e. more profitable) sheep raising by English landowners.

Bettyhill is old hotel, top of hill with great view of bay and sea. Best dinner I've had for a long time, a wonderful creamy mushroom and spinach taglatelle/pasta with pesto. I earned it today. Pastry, now cream sauce, high living, gout to come? 

Hope sky clears tonight, since northern lights supposed to be good.

And across from hotel is a mobile cinema, shows start tomorrow : BFG, and latest Star Trek movie.