Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Arnhem and Nijmegen

Eastern Netherlands actually has some small hills, and important bridges -- as in World War II and a bridge too far. Several museums commemorate this mess of a battle, the overly ambitious 1944 attempt to seize river crossings and swing north around the Siegfried line into Germany and possibly end the war quickly. Instead, the Arnhem Rhine bridge proved too far, the Allies were stopped with great casualties, and Dutch civilians suffered another 8 months of occupation and the "hunger winter" -- their punishment for welcoming this potential liberation.
On a happier note Nijmegen has the Velorama National Bicycle museum with an amazing collection of antique bicycles, tricycles, quadcycles, and even 19th century rollerblades. Astounding design and material variations, with evolving emphasis on cushioning the ride  -- earliest bikes were called boneshakers after all. 
Ladies Bentwood model from 1897.

3 person quad, 1890's.


North of Arnhem is a large national park of forest, barren heath and even sand dunes, with bike and walking paths. This being the Netherlands, the park has 1700 bicycles available to use for free.

In the middle of this strange landscape is the Kroller-Muller art museum featuring a large collection of modern European art, particularly Van Gogh, and a large outdoor sculpture garden. 




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