Tuesday, September 27, 2016

Zeeland, Netherlands southwest coast




Flood control barriers, end point of a stage in the Tour de France in 2015.
Spanish frigate and swans.








Saturday, September 24, 2016

Dutch snapshots







This is such a lovely, friendly, wonderful, fun, flat country, and even the weather is cooperating. Now down on the southwest coast after 5 amazing days in Amsterdam. Too much to say about it all, and only my first week.

Sunday, September 18, 2016

Princess Seaway

This is last night's last view of England.
Right now I'm drinking early morning tea watching the sun rise through a rain squall, still several hours from Amsterdam.
Yesterday took the train from Haydon Bridge to Newcastle, meeting Clive with his folding Brompton bike. He's a broadcast engineer, but used to do some
tour work with the likes of the Rolling Stones and Chrissie Hynde, some stories there. But he had trouble with his electronic ticket and some laughs with the conductor about it.

Clive recommended the Hub bicycle cafe on the Newcastle quayside, so I stopped on my way the 10 miles to the ferry port out the river Tyne.

My cabin aboard this huge ship, slept well, quiet passage.

I might be putting this bicycle blog on hold for a bit as I shift into a more touristy/pedestrian mode in Amsterdam.
Ta ta for now.



Saturday, September 17, 2016

Haydon Bridge, Northumberland

Yesterday rode the 66 miles from Dumfries to here, flat until the afternoon when I got near Hadrians Wall, then 14% grade wake up call. Went to Vindolanda, excavated fort and village where discoveries are still being unearthed. Or should say unmucked -- wet clay anaerobically preserved fabric and wood fragments, as well as bones, pottery, metals, etc. Impressive display of shoes and even a child's sock, from 1,800 years ago. Most important are the small "tablets" -- thin pieces of wood with Latin writing in ink, including military reports, personal letters, and even a birthday party invitation.
Bath at Vindolanda

Today I did more of the wall, on
 the road paralleling it. Housesteads is the largest and best preserved fort, high on a hill, great views. Perfect day to visit, cool and sunny.



View of gate with the wall running to the east.

Tomorrow to Newcastle and the ferry to Amsterdam. Finishing off my last real ale, a Black Sheep best bitter. Sweet.

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Dumfries, Scotland

Yesterday's train ride was memorably scenic: steep valleys, austere peaks, barren and remote, not even many sheep. Did see an antlered deer as the train rolled through this desolate area.
Glenfinnan viaduct was a marvel.
And it was fun to talk with my seatmates Dave and his mother Tracy, returning to the Lake District from hiking and camping on the small islands off Skye.
The train was delayed due to a problem with the swinging bridge over the canal near Fort William, which meant I missed the connection in Glasgow I'd hoped to make, had to wait 1 1/2 hours for the next train to Dumfries, ended up riding at dusk to my B&B outside of town. The friendly "land laddie" host, Ewan Maxwell, has been a finalist for landlady of the year. A very thick accent adds to his charm.


Today I rode a 46 mile loop to Castle Douglas and back on farm roads and bikepaths, warm murky day, buggy, more cows then sheep on rolling pastures. Tomorrow Hadrian's wall.

Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Mallaig, mainland Scotland

Rain during the night, but just cloudy when I leave hostel. No wind, but that means midges, which were also out in force at sunset last night.
Rode the 22 miles to the Armadale ferry,
and the sun came out as I drank tea and ate my sandwich before boarding. Supposed to be nice weather for a week. Oh well, the "misty isle" will remain  forever in mist in my memory.
Sunny over here in Mallaig, where I buy my train ticket for tomorrow and get to watch the famous Jacobite steam train with its antique cars head back to Fort William.
Train buffs please note the manual levers at the right to switch tracks.
This is the tourist train, just round trip rides Fort William to Mallaig and return. But featured as the Hogwarts train in the Harry Potter movie. My train tomorrow will be regular engine and coaches (with my bike space reserved) on the same route through the mountains to Glasgow, including over the famous Glenfinnan Viaduct -- one of the great rail journeys.


Monday, September 12, 2016

Kyleakin, Skye, again

Winds 40 mph today, and mostly rain. But tomorrow looks good, so will ride to ferry and finally leave Skye.
Yesterday I hitched with a new found friend the 10 miles to the castle Eileen Donan, an ancient lochside fortress blown up after the failed Jacobite rebellion in 1719. Rebuilt in 1912 and very picturesque: it's exterior was used in the 1980's movie Highlander, and now the site of weddings. But it was worth visiting even on a gray windy day.

And this is my new friend, Obi-Wan Lucifer Skywalker Baggins -- yes, his legal name on passport --  from Vancouver BC. He's a dedicated world traveler, going to winter over in India after Europe, planning to do a documentary there. He also has a script in the hands of the Star Wars producers. But I'm most impressed by his sense of humor, his irrepressible delight and his laugh. Hitching to the castle was quick, getting a ride with a young priest whose parish is Skye -- Obi-Wan and the priest talked about the latest Star Wars movie, and it cracked us up to hear the priest's Yoda imitation. He noted that the word order jumbling is very much like Latin. 
Obi-Wan also talked at length with one of the castle wardens, who had been an extra in that Highlander movie. And the guard even let him pose with an authentic sword. Fun day.