Back to Bettyhill

Only 31 miles from Thurso, but stiff headwind and showers not so easy a day. Stopped at the Strathnaver museum, commemorating the Highland clearances with personal histories and artifacts, depicting how hard life was in these remote villages even before the brutal evictions.
Then up the hill to the hotel and the sun came out. Bettyhill feels like my own personal Brigadoon, always sunny and picture perfect views, even welcomed back by the friendly staff like I was coming home.

After my creamy mushroom and spinach tagliatelle repeat dinner, met Jean-Baptiste and Aude, from Strasbourg. J-B was setting up his drone to take video of the bay flying up high at twilight. He works for a biomedical firm, she is a classical singer. Had a beer and  very pleasant conversation afterwards.

Thurso, back on mainland of Scotland

Strong cold headwind, damp and uncomfortable too, as I rode west from Kirkwall toward the ferry in Stromness by way of a cluster of famous Neolithic sites. The barrow Maes Howe is 5,000 years old, older than the pyramids; the amazing interior burial chamber was plundered by 12th century Vikings who left curious rune graffiti.

Close by is the Ring of Brognar, large broken henge.

But it was too cold and windy to go on to Skara Brea, the buried village in the dunes, would have been a miserable visit at such an exposed site.
On to Stromness to wait in a cafe for late afternoon ferry. Big ferry still swayed in the strong currents back to Scotland, going by the cliffs of Hoy.

To Thurso, and a real dump of a hostel I had reserved, filthy, crowded, no bottom bunks left, no place to store bike under cover. I fume, go around corner to hotel restaurant, book a single room there while enjoying dinner and couple of bitters, swallowing the 18 pounds paid for the hostel but feeling much better, thank you. Too old to rough it I guess.

Kirkwall day off

After leisurely breakfast at B&B I took my bike to cycle shop for a new tube in rear tire -- in Glasgow they had reused the patched tune, not replaced it as I asked. Pressure had dropped 25 pounds in 3 days, compared to only 5 in front tire, so I really didn't want that hassle. Walked the town some more, to Orkney museum, library, charity shops for their cheap books (30p for paperback), then back to B&B for lunch, reading, resting.

Leg muscles very tight, as I adjust to the pedestrian life.  Rain showers and high winds late afternoon, rainbows when I walk to my now favorite bar (the Bothy bar on Mounthoolies Lane) for local beer Scapa Special pale ale and veggie lasagna.

Kirkwall, Orkneys

Sunny day for the ferry over to the Orkneys, great views, sea birds and dolphins (distantly), British warships going in and out of Scapa Flow. Chat with Erica and Jason who live in Wales, out for some touring of these islands; he proposed to her yesterday at Mew Castle ruins on the way to John O'Groats with an engagement ring, but they will shop for wedding rings at some famous ringmaker in the Orkneys -- the Ring of Brognar (Neolithic standing stones) perhaps?

Warm wind blew me to Kirkwall, almost humid, hazing over. So an easy 21 mile day to B&B, take rest of afternoon off, confirming a few more stops on my itinerary --Outer Hebrides and Skye now planned.
Then wander flagstone streets of Kirkwall, very Norse influenced town. 12th century St. Magnus cathedral, "the light in the North."

 Loved this blissful example of funerary sculpture, in memory of Artic explorer John Rea, who discovered the fate of the 1840's Franklin expedition. Just taking a nap.

John o' Groats, Caithness, day 15 from Lands End

Lovely sun to go with my wonderful breakfast at the BettyHill hotel-- like it so much I booked my room for my return after the Orkneys.
View from breakfast table:

Some ups and downs along this rugged coast, but last half of the day flattened out, also got cloudy. Arrived at the signpost and got the picture, but disappointed that the old hotel there is now an upscale "natural retreat", no longer serving meals. I'm booked in the Seaview hotel up the hill, not great, but decent panini and real ale brewed in John o'Groats.

Bettyhill, Sutherland, on the north coast.

Rain during the night, cloudy and damp start. Soon climbing inland, forest and moor, much evidence of clear cutting, bleak landscape. Climb along the Shin river, then tea and pastry stop at Lairg. A "tiffin", sweet and delicious confection: crushed "biscuits" (digestives), raisins, cocoa, with white chocolate icing, not baked but chilled till set. Onward, soon into drizzle and showers, hint of sun. Meet the Fallkirk bike club out for a few days in the northwest of Scotland, said no rain  until today. Borrow floor pump from their support van to pump up soft rear tire, midge attack even in the rain. Memo to self: no camping, these no-seeums too fierce. To only pub in this remote area but just miss lunch time, so tea and biscuits.

Then onto very isolated single track north to Syre along the Strathnaver trail, following loch and stream. Markers commemorate the "clearances" -- evictions/razing of highland settlements on 1814 for more "efficient" (i.e. more profitable) sheep raising by English landowners.

Bettyhill is old hotel, top of hill with great view of bay and sea. Best dinner I've had for a long time, a wonderful creamy mushroom and spinach taglatelle/pasta with pesto. I earned it today. Pastry, now cream sauce, high living, gout to come? 

Hope sky clears tonight, since northern lights supposed to be good.

And across from hotel is a mobile cinema, shows start tomorrow : BFG, and latest Star Trek movie. 

Alness (near Inverness and Moray Firth)

Mist, drizzle, stop. Repeat, at least for all morning of this cool, cloudy but never very rainy day. Rode along the Caledonia canal and Loch Ness, and had several pots of tea, including this at lunch time.

If you're ever in Drumnadrochit on Loch Ness say hello to Mario for me. Cafe Eighty2, nice fun place, great playlist, including Kate Bush -- Mario agreed with me that her music (from the 80's) is timeless.

The afternoon was just cool and damp, as I left the Highlands behind for now and headed into the flatter farmland of NE Scotland. Today was the longest mileage yet, 84 miles, can feel the fatigue accumulating. Two more days to JOG, then I think a few days "off" in the Orkneys admiring Neolithic sites and resting my Neolithic knees.